Free Electrical Tool
New Oven & Induction Power Checker
Upgrading the kitchen or switching from gas? Check whether your supply and switchboard can handle a new electric oven or induction cooktop — before you buy it.
Gas to induction: the hidden electrical work
The appliance is the cheap part. Moving to induction means a new 32A circuit from the switchboard, RCBO protection, and enough spare supply capacity — which is where older homes with ceramic-fuse switchboards or 63A services get caught out. Checking before the kitchen renovation locks in the budget; discovering it after the benchtops are in does not.
Planning several electric upgrades at once — induction, air con, EV charging? Run the whole house through the maximum demand calculator to see the combined picture.
Frequently asked questions
Can my switchboard handle an induction cooktop?
An induction cooktop needs its own 32A circuit with RCBO protection. Many older Sydney switchboards have no spare poles and no safety switches on existing circuits — so an induction upgrade often includes switchboard work, and on a 63A supply, sometimes a consumer mains upgrade.
Do I need to upgrade my power when switching from gas to electric cooking?
Sometimes. Gas-to-induction adds roughly 15–20A of diversified demand and always needs a new dedicated circuit. Homes with 80A/100A supplies usually absorb it easily; 63A homes with ducted air conditioning or a pool may need a supply upgrade.
What size circuit does an electric oven need?
A standard built-in oven (up to ~4.8 kW) runs on a dedicated 20A circuit. Induction cooktops and freestanding ranges need 32A. Both must be RCBO-protected under current wiring rules when the circuit is new or altered.
Why does my oven trip the safety switch?
Common causes: a failing heating element leaking to earth, a shared overloaded circuit, or an old switchboard with nuisance-tripping devices. If it started after a new appliance install, the circuit may be undersized — get it checked rather than resetting repeatedly.